Rabari gypsy woolen shawls with amazing mirrorwork and embroidery are known as Dhablis. Explore the meaning and technique behind this ancient textile.
I was absolutely stunned when I opened the package and beheld this textile. I swear to you, it's the finest thing I own.
It's called a Dhabli.
From what I can ascertain, Dhabli refers to a woolen, handwoven lightweight blanket or shawl made by the Rabari tribe in Gujarat, India. (There is a village called Dhabli in the Shajapur district of Madhya pradesh, India, which is east of Gujarat so I don't think it's related...)
Two notes:
1. My co-worker told me I should make a bathing suit out of it because barracudas would be attracted to the mirrors.
2. It's too big for my house and I will probably be forced to sell it in my shop. This does not make me happy.
These textiles are woven from Deshi/Desi (Merino) wool.
This piece has a plain ground that looks as if it were woven from two different colored
threads (it looks like brown and reddish/brownish/whitish). The finished product is a
dark, rich brown. The texture is slightly stiff and scratchy. Good for a blanket, but not
soft enough for a scarf. In the picture below, you can see the lighter of the two colors (weft, I believe), in the center portion.
It has been subsequently tie-dyed in the bandhani style. I can't figure out how they did this.
I'm fairly certain the dark brown is woven in and the dots were created later. But how?
The gold color of the dots does not originate with the warp and weft of this cloth. They could have
been stamped, I guess, rather than tie-dyed. But I can see the little mark in the middle of each dot
that happens when it's tied off. If anyone knows, please comment below! PLEASE!
The ends have a woven design, with what looks like tapestry or brocade work.
The VERY ends are decorated with ornate embroidery and mirror-work.
There are also patches of embroidery and mirrorwork across the main ground.
The end is finished with fringe and pompom tassels, and a multicolored embroidered strip goes straight up the middle.
It's proven difficult to find information about this type of textile online. Here's a good paper (although the translation is a bit wonky):
After the weaving of Dhabla , Blanket, Shawls etc. is completed it is removed from the looms, the ends (chheda) of Dhabla are tied down with beautiful designs .They call this process as “chheda-bandhawa’’ . This is done with different coloured woolen thread with the help of card and strings . This adds good look to the finished product and dose not allow the weft to loose out dyeing the use. The craftsmen are weaving formed dyeing the weaving process. This consumes less time and gives good finish to the final product. Craftsmen , use of motifs are also seen in the blanket which is specially prepared . Most of the designs are demo dyeing the weaving product like patta and other geometrical forms. Craftsmen are using the ready made yarn brought from Barmer and other places . They are using Mareina wool which is slightly loose but is much more smooth and of time count which give the finished product a good and bright look . Yarns Articles were woven with cotton and woolen yarns . When weaving was started pure woolen yarns were used but it was more expensive , so customers do not purchase easily weavers used cotton and woolen yarn which they dye themselves , but the customers used complain about colour fading , so there days they have started using “ Acrylic yarn ’’ They also used Marino wool yarn with this yarn they made articles which are very attractive. Marino wool is made from hair of Marino sheep weavers of Kutch district do not dye & bleach this yarn, but directly purchase coloured yarn from Punjab (Ludhiyana ) Bhuj – Bazaar. Different colour is yarn is available in the market
I can't find any other references to the Bandhawa process and I wonder if this has been mis-translated. It's a place in India, but I don't think it's related to this particular textile technique. It's mentioned here with tying, so I wonder if they mean bandhani style tie-dying, which is present across the ground of the piece, but not on the ends, and it doesn't involve additional threads...If anyone knows, please comment below.
Here's what the seller says about this particular piece:
It is embroidered by tribal artisans in Gujarat, and provides work and livelihood for women in Kutch region. Its ETHNIC Colors and Breathtaking Design is sure to adorn the beauty of its possessor, and hence this makes it surely worth giving it a go!!!
Condition: Genuine Old
Size: 138 inches X 34 inches
Originating Tribe: Rabari Tribe (Description Below)
Banjara (Nomadic or Gypsy) Tribes
The Banjaras came to the Deccan following the invasion by the armies of Aurangzeb. According to some authorities, the actual Banjara lineage goes back to some 2000 years. They are said to be the descendants of the Roma gypsies of Europe who migrated to India through the rugged mountains of Afghanistan and finally settled down in Rajasthan. The colourful stream of the Banjaras began to travel down to the South in the 14th century. Many of their families and pack bullocks crossed the Vindhy as and reached the Deccan country in the wake of the plundering armies.Those were hard time for the Banjaras. “There were no navigable rivers and no roads to wheel their belongings. Thousands of laden bullocks and carts had to travel on mere dust tracks. A single tribe owned as many as 50000 to 60000 cattle” says Capt. Briggs (1813). And so, thanks to the number of cattle they owned, the Banjaras worked for the Moghuls as commissariat carriers transporting provisions and arms, setting up camps on the outskirts of army encampments. When the Southern campaigns ended, the Banjaras forgot their desert homes in Rajasthan and settled down in the Deccan.Today due to the spread of communication the Banjara lifestyle has naturally altered and the tribals have had to abandon their packs of animals and take to working as labourers on building and construction projects. Despite all this, their traditional customs, manners and ceremonies have undergone little change but their migratory instinct is still intact.Women are known to wear colorful and beautiful costumes like PHETIYA [as Ghagra] and KANCHALLI [as top] and have tattoos on their hands. The dress is considered fancy and attractive by Western cultures. They use mirror chips and often coins to decorate it. Women put on thick bangles on their arms [PATLI]. Their ornaments are made up of silver rings, coins, chain and hair pleats are tied together at the end by CHOTLA.Men wear Dhoti and Kurta [short with many folds]. These clothes were designed specially for the protection from harsh climate in deserts and to distinguish them from others.
*BEENA PATEL **HEMALATTA.J.PATEL ***NEETA.P.CHUDHARY
Shodh, Samiksha aur Mulyankan (International Research Journal)—ISSN-0974-2832
Vol. II, Issue-5 (Nov.08-Jan.09)
I love this Banjara Dhabli Shawl! I have a large wall I could hang something like this on. Can you tell me where you found it? Thanks! Alexandra Walker NH
ReplyDeleteHi Alexandra! I can find you one if you like! They are SOOOOOO beautiful in person, seriously.
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